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Ceramithane? http://www-.luthiersforum.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=10102&t=10021 |
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Author: | TRein [ Wed Dec 27, 2006 2:13 am ] |
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Have any of our members tried Ceramithane water-based finish as sold by Highland Woodworking? |
Author: | Serge Poirier [ Thu Dec 28, 2006 4:37 pm ] |
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bump |
Author: | TRein [ Fri Dec 29, 2006 12:55 am ] |
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Maybe I should give a bit more info. Highland says Ceramithane is the friendliest water based topcoat for brush application they have tried. In an earlier catalog, they said you could be almost careless with a cheap poly brush and it would still flow out. It is not a big expense to try a quart, but my shelves are lined with such trial quarts! |
Author: | j.Brown [ Fri Dec 29, 2006 1:30 am ] |
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I'd be interested in this as well. -j. |
Author: | Chris Ide [ Fri Dec 29, 2006 2:29 am ] |
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I've used it on a cherry vanity. I was given a quart by a local paint store to try out and yes it is very forgiving. It carries the KCMA (kitchen cabinets manufactures association) approval which means that it is tough and resistant to water and chemicals. Almost no consumer finishes meet the KCMA standards, catalized lacquers, polyester finishes are the norm. It cross links which explains its toughness. Overall I was happy with the results, low odor, very easy to apply, and so far seems to be holding up very well. Bathrooms are tough enviroments for woodwork. I've had callbacks on some of my early work finished in poly and standard lacquers that didn't hold up to the harsh cleaning and the humid enviroment of bathrooms. I wanted to try it again, but my local supplier decided not to carry it, minimum order requirements and local demand didn't match up. Would it make a good instrument finish? It would be tough but I dont know if it would give the depth and shine of lacquer. edit: I have a pictures of the vanity, not the eyecandy that everyone here is used to, and I haven't figured out how to post pics here yet. |
Author: | burbank [ Fri Dec 29, 2006 2:45 am ] |
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Chris, A pic, it has to be 150 kB or less, preferably about 600 x 450 pixels or thereabouts. To post it, from the post window (which you used to type your post -- I don't know what else to call it) there's a row of buttons below the Subject text box. Use the second button from the right, which brings up a browse window where you can naviagate to your sized image. Check it using the Preview Post button at the bottom of the post window. Hit return once or twice if you're posting more than one image; that will space them out vertically. |
Author: | Chris Ide [ Sat Dec 30, 2006 10:33 am ] |
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Thanks Pat, dont know why I couldnt figure that out, but here it is not a guitar, but brushed finished in ceramithane,Natural cherry darkened with UV light, granite top, granite/tile panels in the doors. Watch out now lots of pics to show. ![]() |
Author: | Don A [ Sat Dec 30, 2006 11:41 am ] |
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Thomas, here is a link I found on Ceramithane. They indicate that it should not be applied over laquer or shellac ( Graham Paint ). Another post on a kayak forum said the manufacturer was unsure about application over epoxy, so if your pore filling with Zpoxy be sure and do some testing first. |
Author: | TRein [ Sat Dec 30, 2006 1:43 pm ] |
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Don, Thanks for the sheet from Graham Paint. It is a fairly standard paint industry stance that their product, whatever it is, must not be applied over shellac or lacquer. When you think of some do-it-yourselfer going down to the local Ace and buying premixed shellac that has been on the shelf for who knows how long, you can see why manufacturers are a bit hinky about shellac undercoats. It could in fact be true that Ceramithane should not be applied over shellac. I plan to get in touch with Graham Paint to ask them about this. However, applying a second coat of Ceramithane over a previous coat of cross-linked Ceramithane is solely a mechanical bond, which is what you'd get applying it over shellac. |
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